The only problem we had with Regina's Beach Fale were the ants – they virtually owned the place (or at least our fale). Other then that, our overnight stay there was very relaxing and friendly. So we packed up our stuff, loaded the car and then went to have breakfast with our four other fale residents. The breakfast was superb and filling which is a great combination for only $50WST. In short order, all the other residents had to move on to the next leg of their Samoan journey (the Swedish and NZ guy traveled by bust to their next location – they were hardcore travelers), leaving only us and the British couple to enjoy Regina. Eventually we had to say our goodbye and move on to the western side of Savaii.
Joining us for this leg of the journey would be our trusty sidekick from Upolu: gray skies! The rain and wind decided to come with us to Savaii, so there was no repeat of the glistening sky and warm tropical heat – instead with this weather it felt like Chicago weather. The drive along the northern/western coast of Savaii wasn't too bad and this was my first time seeing this region again since my Savaii bike trip last year. Driving along the inland part of this route reminded me of how mentally tough it was to bike – but driving it was nothing! It took us about an hour and a half to make it to the entrance to Falealupo-tai (which is a road that leads off to the western most point on Savaii) and once the paved road ended, the sandy track wasn't too much of a problem because of the rain. We eventually came to the entrance to the beach fales and this time it was just us there – no other guests to be found. Mom then pointed out we've been around fewer people as we changed beach fales – starting with a lot of people at Taufua to no other people here at Falealupo. Hopefully we both make it to the last beach fale tomorrow.
Now, in case you didn't know, Falealupo represents the last habitable place before the International Date Line (and thus, it's the last place before tomorrow) so I have always called this the "End of the World". There's a great view of the ocean and it's always fun to look out west and know the end of the world is just over the horizon. When we arrived at the fale, the wind and rain were pretty bad and harsh but as the afternoon came on the wind died down, the rain stopped and the air started to become warmer i.e. it felt like a tropical island again. So once the weather started acting right, mom went and collected some sea shells while I decided to go for a swim. The ocean floor was different from a lot of other beaches I've been to because I didn't see any live coral here – just the dead ones, which mans the beach is sandy and there are not a lot of fish close to shore. The current was also very strong at Falealupo, so I didn't want to risk swimming to far out.
As for Falealupo-tai, it reminded me of a Samoan version of Mayberry (from the Andy Griffith Show). It seems like a very sleepy and peaceful village – far from the hustle and bustle of the megacity known as Apia (j/k). I am really looking forward to watching the sunset at Falealupo because it is the last place in the world that experiences the sunset, kind of crazy to believe that! Also, with this trip to Falealupo mom has officially traveled from the east coast to the west coast of Samoa – in only 8 days (there are Samoans who have lived here their entire life and not accomplished that feat).
Some Peace Corps Volunteers came to this beach fale for New Years, but I was in New Zealand at the time so this is my first stay. It's a bit off the beaten path, but has a nice view and a good price ($50WST), so no matter what it's still better then Virgin Cove! L8r.
Addendum: One of the things I definitely wanted to do before leaving Samoa was see the sunset at Falealupo. So how cool is it that I not only accomplish the task but was able to share that moment with my mom. We, of course, took a lot of photos of the sunset and even got an "Awwwww" one of us both looking out at the sunset. Once the sun finally went down, it was time for dinner. Our previous non-human guests have been cats and ants – who would join us tonight? Mosquitoes were the guest of honor and mainly because they served us fried fish which attracted them. The other part of our meal was made up of rice and fried chicken, but the mosquitoes weren't interested in either one of those. After the meal mom got another one of her wishes answered – a sky full of stars. Even the southern star (the brightest star in the southern hemisphere) was in full display. Now all we need is for the moon to show itself and that would be another mission accomplished! Here's hoping!
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